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    <lastmod>2020-10-23</lastmod>
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      <image:caption>Electric Cooler Go kart</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Baltic Birch TV Stand</image:caption>
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  <url>
    <loc>http://www.adam-jablonski.com/diy-kiln</loc>
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    <lastmod>2016-04-26</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Annealing Kiln</image:title>
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      <image:title>Annealing Kiln</image:title>
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      <image:title>Annealing Kiln - Waiting to Attach the Roof and the Door.</image:title>
      <image:caption />
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      <image:title>Annealing Kiln - Fitting the Top of the Enclosure.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I put the element in the roof of the kiln. I wanted an even heat far away from the work on the floor, I'm not sure I would do it again this way. Kanthal expands and sags when heated which makes attaching it to the ceiling of the kiln a challenge. I used pins made of kanthal wire pressed into the brick to hold it in place. A better solution is to cut a groove in the walls of the kiln and embed the element there or sleeve the element in fused quartz tubing and hang that from the ceiling to eliminate sag.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Annealing Kiln - Fitting the Encloser.</image:title>
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      <image:title>Annealing Kiln - Fitting the Encloser.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Making sure the aluminum enclosure fits well. The legs ensure airflow can reach the surface it is sitting on. Aluminum was chosen because it was easy to cut and drill  with the tools at hand.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Annealing Kiln - Kiln Mockup</image:title>
      <image:caption>I cut the firebricks with a handheld wood saw and did a dry fit to make sure the pieces would fit together. Fire brick is extremely easy to cut but produces a lot of dust. The trick is to design a kiln that maximizes the number of whole bricks used to minimizes cuts and seams needed.</image:caption>
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    <loc>http://www.adam-jablonski.com/architectural-engineering</loc>
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    <lastmod>2016-04-26</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Architectural Engineering</image:title>
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      <image:title>Architectural Engineering</image:title>
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    <loc>http://www.adam-jablonski.com/remote-control</loc>
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    <lastmod>2021-02-15</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Remote Control Aircraft</image:title>
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      <image:title>Remote Control Aircraft</image:title>
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      <image:title>Remote Control Aircraft</image:title>
      <image:caption>All of these pictures were taken from the plane graveyard in my parents basement asking which ones they can throw away. They're too nice for letting me keep them there when I was on school and when I moved to Seattle.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Remote Control Aircraft</image:title>
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      <image:title>Remote Control Aircraft</image:title>
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  <url>
    <loc>http://www.adam-jablonski.com/electric-cooler-go-kart</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2020-10-20</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/550e5c67e4b0f9dc83a2fce6/t/5b46ed6303ce644f5f27a355/1603172902243/</image:loc>
      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>Test fitting the bearing brackets. The bearings brackets were purchased with the bearings. The axle is a 1" steel axle.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>Skip some steps and here is the first test fit with the motor. The tape is to prevent metal filings and dust from entering the motor. This is about the spot where I started to stray away from my CAD models. I kept the motor mount edges square for simplicity and added some additional holes and a support bracket.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>Test fitting the cooler.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/550e5c67e4b0f9dc83a2fce6/t/5f8e7deac9e1691d59dc4487/1603174109068/IMG_20181215_223309.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>It’s hard to tell from this angle, but I made a bracket to hold the controller above the motor. This leaves free space above the axel for the batteries. I also added a brake. It’s a single hydraulic moped brake caliper and a tiny 4.5” rotor. Maybe a little undersized, but it can still lock up the tires. Plus the regenerative braking from the motor is able to do most of the braking work.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>Here are the front spindle brackets after being chopped off. To reweld, I inserted and plugwelded a piece of flat stock vertically through the front tube and into the tubing attached to the brackets to add some rigidity and butt welded the tubing back together.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/550e5c67e4b0f9dc83a2fce6/t/5b46eb336d2a733141966830/1531374417703/</image:loc>
      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>I ended up with a design where the electronic components would be hidden in the cooler.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/550e5c67e4b0f9dc83a2fce6/t/5b46ed0e2b6a28f6ea52447b/1603172865221/IMG_20171107_193335.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>Making the motor mount. I had to make sure the holes were smooth as wires needed to pass through them.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>Test fitting it in the car. One of the most important parts was making sure this would fit in my car so it would be easy to transport. Mission accomplished! I don’t even have to fold down the rear seats. As you can see in this photo, I added a place to put your feet. I changed this later to larger tubing for the foot pegs, added handlebar grips, painted the frame, and that’s about it!</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>I printed some drawings of the frame and motor mount.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>I did some research on steering geometry and thought that replicating a "bar stool racer's" geometry would be best since it's sort of a similar chassis size. The spindle is what the wheel mounts to and the kingpin is the bolt that the spindle pivots on, which is held in a bracket seen in the picture. This bracket is tilted back towards driver when viewed from above which is called positive caster. A couple of degrees of negative camber was also added which means that the top of the wheel tilts in towards the kart body when viewed from the front. This was the first test fit of the spindle brackets. My caster angle ended up being way too extreme (about 12 degrees) so I ended up chopping off the brackets and rewelding them on at about a 5 degree angle. There is about 3 degrees of king pin camber but then the spindle axle was welded on at about a 1-2 degree angle opposing the kingpin angle so the end result is about 1-2 degrees of camber. This geometry is needed to achieve a "jacking effect" on the front wheels where during a turn, the inside wheel is forced into the ground and outside wheel lifted off of the ground. The rider's body weight is then shifted to the front tire that is off of the ground which causes the inside rear tire to lift off the ground slightly. This is needed because this kart uses a solid rear axle (no differential) which does not allow the rear wheels to turn at different speeds. Turning with both rear wheels on the ground is next to impossible. No jigs or templates were used during this whole build which made getting steering geometry difficult to get exactly mirrored but I am happy with the result.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>This is about where I stopped taking pictures consistently. After rewelding the spindle brackets, I built steering column support out of 3/8" round solid steel. I used plastic bushings and locking collars to hold the steer shaft in place. I hope to replace the top bushing with a bearing in the near future for more rigidity. The steering column is a 5/8" steel column with a pitman arm welded to the bottom. The tie rods connect the pitman arm to the spindles.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>Further progress on the cooler mounting bracket. The cooler is made out of polyethylene which makes it really really hard to glue. I ended up drilling holes though the exterior shell of the cooler and mounting bracket and using epoxy and 3/4" drywall knotting anchors.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>That same tube after bending.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>Test fitting the motor and doing it’s first spin up.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/550e5c67e4b0f9dc83a2fce6/t/5b46ea72352f53728bc987ca/1531374203346/IMG_20170926_183122.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>The shop also didn't have a tubing notcher so I used a cut off wheel and bench grinder to shape tubing for proper fit up. In hindsight, I should have just purchased a tubing notcher and maybe a bender. It would have saved a lot of time.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>I added a skeleton to the inside of the cooler to add rigidity and a place to hold the batteries. The skeleton is 1” flat bar stock fastened to the cooler with drywall anchors and epoxy. HDPE is tough to fasten to. The internal skeleton also holds a 150 amp fuse between the battery and controller. at 48volts, that caps max continuous power at 7,200 Watts, or 9.6 HP.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>All cleaned up.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/550e5c67e4b0f9dc83a2fce6/t/5b48255103ce6449d4cd9c4c/1531454850427/IMG_20180323_191332.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>This is the start of one of the brackets that is used to mount the cooler to the frame.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>Frame coming together</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/550e5c67e4b0f9dc83a2fce6/t/5b4592b7352f5340dfe46c50/1603172791925/V1+3D+Model.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>My first Idea was to keep all of the gear outside of the cooler and keep the cooler intact. I wanted to get a little better at 3D modeling, so once I had a good idea of the parts I wanted, I used Fusion 360 to sketch up key components to make sure everything would fit the way I wanted</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/550e5c67e4b0f9dc83a2fce6/t/5b4589cf03ce6428956f498f/1531283995862/ezgif-4-1f0bb0eb63.gif</image:loc>
      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/550e5c67e4b0f9dc83a2fce6/t/5b46e9bc562fa757bc0ebc92/1531374567979/</image:loc>
      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>The frame is made out of 1" OD DOM steel tube with a 0.083" wall thickness. The space I worked at did not have any pipe or tubing benders so I notched the tubing, bent it to shape and welded up the notches. This tube was bent into one of the corners.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/550e5c67e4b0f9dc83a2fce6/t/5b46ea0388251b2d2b52c1b2/1531374132304/IMG_20171018_192103.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Electric Cooler Go Kart</image:title>
      <image:caption>All welded up. This was my first time welding so I made good use out of the grinder and flap disc sander.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
</urlset>

